This 11,000’er is a classic skimo tour in the Canadian Rockies. Don’t be surprised if you see several groups heading up on a sunny day. Best when stability is good, the snowpack is deep, and the sun is out!
Notable: Ski Mountaineering, Glacier travel, Bootpacking, Scrambling, 11000’er
A short ways north of the Hector Lake, there is a small pull out on the west side of 93N. Across from here, there is the Hector Creek drainage heading east. Follow up the drainage to a large avy runout. Be cautious here as it steepens – there is overhead danger and you’ll be exposed while climbing. You’ll eventually come to a narrow gully and a waterfall. Typically, one can bootpack up if there is enough snow. On the rare occasion, crampons may be required. After the waterfall continue heading south-east. It is wise to rope up at the toe of the glacier. There are many monstrous crevasses here! Typically, the route is slightly looker’s right, but be aware of the overhead danger from Little Hector and the ridge – I have seen an avalanche come down and cover the skin track towards late morning. The final ascent up the summit block often requires crampons, an ice-axe and possibly a rope.
Given some of the exposure, an early start is recommended if solar heating is a concern.