Mt Gordon is a fairly simple objective on the Wapta that will get you some really great views. Hit it from Bow Hut, or from the Bow Lake parking lot for a long day trip. The descent can be spiced up by skiing the north face.


24.1/10.8 km


1393/847 m


7-9/4-6 hrs




If starting from Bow Lake, follow the standard winter route to the Bow Hut. From the Bow Hut, head west/northwest towards the toe of the glacier. The slope from the toe of the glacier up to the Wapta Icefields provides fairly decent skiing, but there are plenty of crevasses. Head up this slope and onto the Wapta Icefields. On the left will be Mt St Nicholas. Rather than wrapping around St Nick for the St Nick/Olive route, continue heading straight southwest – aiming for the west side of Mt Gordon. You’ll have a clear view of the north face of Mt Gordon here and if you plan on skiing it, it’s best to scope your line out now – the descent is steep and has a number of holes/cracks. It is a low angle slope to the west side of Gordon. You’ll pass a rock outcropping with deep lip on your left. After this, it’s a short but steep ascent that can be gained by going straight up or by continuing southwest, then head back along the ridge. The final push to the summit has just a mellow gradient.

You can descend the same way you came up. This is the easiest descent. An alternative is to descend the north face. The glacier can be pretty gnarly on this line so be sure to spot it on the way up Gordon. The line begins by heading northeast from the peak of Mt Gordon, aiming generally towards Mt Olive. Eventually it will drop into a steep slope with crevasses (see photos below).




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