Mitre Col

It’s a long way in to Mitre Col from Lake Louise, but it can be a decent choice for some nice early/late season turns. Crevasses, a bergschrund, and serac fall are all serious hazards on this route.

Distance

19.3 km

Elevation

1048 m

Time

8-10 hrs

Aspect

NW

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ROUTE DESCRIPTION

From the Lake Louise Parking area, head towards the Fairmont Chateau and onto the Plain of the Six Glaciers trail. After about 4.5 km, you will come out of the trees. To your left, you will see Lefroy and the moraines. Depart from the trail and head towards the moraines and Mt Lefroy. It may be possible to skin up the moraines, but in early season you will most likely have to bootpack. There is a small gully which may hold enough snow to make bootpacking easier. Once above the moraines, continue heading towards the Mitre and Lefroy glacier. Pay attention to the large serac hanging over Lefroy glacier – there was a lot of serac debris from a recent fall covering the glacier last time we were here. You’ll want to rope up before proceeding to cross the glacier. Once at the base of Mitre Col, you will have to cross the bergschrund, after which, climb via switchbacks up the col. Two thirds of the way up, it’s possible to trend left heading up and over a convexity to gain more elevation. Return the same way.

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